Southwest England's Arresting Atlantic Links

If it wasn't for the bracing air, freshening breezes and the underfoot springiness of the firm links turf beneath our feet, one might've thought they were in the Caribbean.

Few American golf enthusiasts make their way to this mostly undiscovered area of southwest England, in and around Cornwall, and consequently would have no idea that the waters of the sea do a fine imitation of Aruba or Barbados. They are cerulean, a gorgeous sapphire blue, as delightful as a late spring sky, the color of Paul Newman's eyes.

When we think about great links golf in the UK, we picture slate-grey waters or impenetrable dark blues found near St. Andrews, the Irish Sea or the Scottish Highlands. But the robin's-egg color of the sea at little-known gems such as St. Enodoc, Trevose and Royal North Devon is just one of the delights of the golf life in this lovely, albeit somewhat removed, part of England.

It's a solid two hours or more from London's Heathrow airport down to Burnham & Berrow, an 1890 creation of Harry Colt. The club's first professional was the legendary J.H. Taylor, five times the British Open champion, who described the course as "one of the most sporting courses conceivable." If by "sporting" he meant "tougher than Chinese trigonometry," this correspondent is in full agreement.

B&B has distinct sand hills that form stubborn, natural obstacles, with a prevailing southwesterly wind that whips in from the Atlantic and along the Bristol Channel. The opening nine (downwind) features a surfeit of short par-4s and reachable par-5s, while the inward (upwind) nine is much longer, with numerous uphill approach shots. Score early, as the journey back to the clubhouse will undoubtedly lead most players to score more often.

Several hours further down the road is one of the finest links courses you've never heard of, St. Enodoc. Like Burnham & Berrow, it was founded in 1890. But despite its inherent difficulties, St. Enodoc never feels like a slog. It's a joyous romp through fields of waving heather. Bright-blue waters beckon in the middle distance as the holes ramble up, down and through the capacious property. Designed by James Braid, it has a fantastic setting among the dunes overlooking the River Camel estuary and with far-reaching views over the Atlantic.

The course is renowned for its towering Himalaya bunker on the puzzling sixth hole, the tallest bunker in Europe. The downhill 10th is a rip-roaring par-4 that most players will be thankful to negotiate in five tries, and the hole which follows is a miles-long par-3 where many won't be the least embarrassed to pull driver from the bag. This is not only one of the zaniest and most memorable courses in England, but in the entire UK.

Full-service resorts aren't the norm in this land of winding country lanes, rustic pubs and charming B&Bs, but there are exceptions. Across the Camel River from St. Enodoc and over the majestic Trevose Head that juts into the Atlantic, Trevose Golf & Country Club offers a stern-but-not-unnerving test of golf, complete with jaw-dropping views of indigo waves crashing just yards from several front-nine greens. This is a one-stop shop, with a fine restaurant, lively bar, holiday flats and bungalows, tennis courts, game room and spa. The village of St. Merryn is but a five-minute drive and has a smattering of eateries and shops.

To be fair, if it wasn't for the zillion-dollar Pebble Beach-quality views, the golf course itself would be considered just so-so. But on the other hand, with the grip-tightening, throat-parching ethos that exists at many links courses, it's a welcome change of pace to play a course that gives one room to bust a driver without fear the ball will sail sideways into the ever-present breezes and gusts, into the witness-protection program (otherwise known as heather or fescue) and never to be spied again.

While driving at Trevose is relatively easy, driving to and from the facility is another kettle of fish (and chips). Suffice it to say that the roads are ribbons, the hedges high and encroaching, the road and town signs mercurial at best, and "missing" might be the best description of all. Never mind driving on the left side of the road, where every roundabout seems counterintuitive.

The fact is that operating one's own vehicle in these parts will result in a higher rate of error than numerous other similar locales this correspondent has visited, which include multiple trips to Scotland, Ireland, Wales and northern England. It's not that it can't be done. Just allow for plenty of extra time, be prepared for circuitous routings, and don't be afraid to pull over, ask a local where such-and-such town or village might be located, then get ready to repeat the exercise five or 10 minutes later.

All the puzzling driving is well worth a visit to Saunton, one of the finest 36-hole links complexes in the world. Set in the remote shadows of the giant sand dunes of Braunton Burrows, when the club was inaugurated in 1893 its clubhouse doubled up as the local post office. Now it's a destination for golf cognoscenti from the world over. Nick Faldo, one of England's greatest players and the three-time British Open champion, once opined, "I've no doubt if the East Course at Saunton were located on the coast of Lancashire or Kent it would have hosted an Open Championship by now."

While the East is consistently excellent from first to last, the West is less consistent but certainly has its moments. It's a rarity to see dramatic downhill par-3s on true links courses, but the West offers two, at the 16th and 18th holes. Independently, either course in well worthwhile. In tandem, they make for a superb day of authentic links golf in a serene setting.

After a long day of stick-and-ball battle, famished golfers would be wise to resuscitate at Squire's Fish & Chips, in the nearby center of bustling Saunton. This is one of the most highly regarded (and most reasonably priced) fish and chips parlors in the southwest. While dining, it's comforting to know a full-service hotel, with the requisite gym, cocktail lounge, restaurant, shops, etc., is just 15 minutes down the road.

Saunton Sands has many fine attributes, not the least of which is a massive beach, miles-long and seemingly half-a-mile wide, at least when the tide is out. It's doggie heaven; we must have seen several dozen groupings of two or three speeding about the firm, smooth sand during a 60-minute waterside stroll. Each Fido looked as though they'd breakfasted on a bowl of espresso, so exhilarated and energized to be gamboling about on such a gorgeous morning in this one-of-a-kind setting.

Speaking of animals, there were sheep abounding at Royal North Devon, also known as Westward Ho! Just 40 minutes from Saunton, this 1864 creation is England's oldest links. The golf course has hardly changed over 150 years and it is like taking a step back in time and seeing how golf was played in Victorian England. The aforementioned J.H. Taylor began here as a caddie, went off and won five Claret Jugs, then returned to become the club president.

Mostly flat, and set on common land where livestock still graze, RND is more history lesson than compelling links, particularly as their clubhouse serves as a treasure trove of golf memorabilia second only to the Royal and Ancient in St. Andrews, Scotland. The front side has some fine holes not far from the sea, but the home half offers less character, and mostly resembles a peaceful walk in a farmer's field.

These courses, known collectively as the Atlantic Links, offer a fine primer in the joyful wonder of playing authentic links golf. There are other areas throughout the UK and Ireland with courses that are more venerable, historic and well-known, but this "Fab Five" can hold its own in the most important category of them all: The fun factor.

For more information, visit www.atlantic-links.co.uk.

Joel Zuckerman is an award-winning travel writer based in Savannah, Ga., and Park City, Utah. He is the only two-time winner of the Book of the Year Award as bestowed by the International Network of Golf. His most recent Book of the Year winner is titled "Pro's Pros - Extraordinary Club Professionals Making Golf Great!" which took this prestigious honor in January 2014. This is the first-ever golf book to shine the spotlight on the beating heart of golf - the unsung, yet hard-working club professional. His next project, slated for release in early 2016, is titled "Golfers Giving Back," which will be an unprecedented look at some of the nation's most exceptional charity golf tournaments. Joel's course reviews, player profiles, essays and features have appeared in 110 publications, including Sports Illustrated, Golf, Continental Magazine and Delta's Sky Magazine. He has played more than 800 courses in 40-plus states and a dozen countries. For more about Joel or to order any of his books, visit www.vagabondgolfer.com.

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