Golf in Asia - Dalat Vietnam

Imagine a place where the temperature is warm in the day but not hot, cool at night but not cold. Then imagine rolling hills, a lake, hiking and good restaurants in a walkable town then, just for fun, add a great golf course or even two.

This seemingly imaginary place not only exists but thrives. It is Dalat, about a 30-minute flight north from Ho Chi Min City, formerly Saigon, or an hour-and-a-half flight south from Hanoi. While the rest of Southeast Asia is in its hot season from April to October, Dalat's weather is perfect for golf. You can play all day in shorts and a polo shirt and hardly break a sweat yet still enjoy a cold drink at the end of your round.

Dalat Palace

Dalat Palace is one of the few regulation 18-hole golf courses in the world that is in the heart of a city. Literally a five-minute taxi ride from any Dalat hotel or guesthouse, it can tempt you every time you look over Lake Xuan Huong. Located on what was once an old French Hill station, it has long been considered one of Vietnam's most beautiful resorts.

But don't let its downtown proximity fool you. This is a challenging 18 holes overlooking the charming town of Dalat. It measures 7,009 yards from the tips and from its hillside has stunning views of Xuan Huong Lake, the French-inspired architecture of its namesake town, and the tree-covered hills surrounding the town.

The course built in the 1930s has been completely renovated a number of times and today features bentgrass greens and an interesting layout. The restaurant serves good food and has a variety of alcohol from around the world. The pro shop is small but fully equipped, and the locker room, while not luxurious, is very adequate.

It's interesting to note that during the American war with Vietnam neither side bombed Dalat because the military brass from both sides used it as a retreat. It was and remains a place to rest from the heat and intensity of city life. Its French architecture remains intact despite it being a decidedly Vietnamese burg that is not on the radar of most tourists.

Originally, Emperor Bao Dai learned to play golf on a trip to France. When he returned in the early 1930s he decided to build a course here and put in six holes. The course closed when the Emperor fled to Hong Kong at the end of World War II and then it reopened when a Vietnamese doctor settled in Dalat and raised money to restore it. It closed again after the American war and takeover by North Vietnam, but was came to life again in 1994 by the co-founder of DHL, millionaire Larry Hillblom, who turned it into a championship venue.

Since then it has thrived and won awards, including Golf Digest's No. 1 ranking for courses in Vietnam for seven years in a row. Other accolades include:

2008-09 Best Golf Course in Vietnam by Asia Golf Monthly Magazine
2008-09 Best Golf Course in Vietnam by Vietnam Golf Magazine
2001-07 Ranked Vietnam's No. 1 golf course by Golf Digest
2007 Voted Vietnam's No. 1 golf course by Asian Golf Monthly
2007 Voted Vietnam's "Most Beautiful" golf course by Vietnam Golf Magazine
2006 voted Asia's 10th best golf course by Asia Golf Monthly

Some of the things I like about the course are its routing and vistas. There is water that enters play on six holes, which is also acceptable; I have a personal dislike for a course where water is in play on nine or more holes. The water hazards here add to the ambience as do the lush tropical plantings and trees, some of which are over a century old.

I have played the course during two separate visits. The first time I enjoyed it so much I played 18 before lunch and then another nine afterwards. In the first round I think I found every sand trap on the front nine but, with each nine, I improved and from the blues (I usually play at the whites) I still beat my handicap on the final nine. That may be why I like the course so much.

Just as likely is that where I was volunteering in Cambodia at the time was in full "hot season" and blazing in April, while the climate in Dalat is so relaxing that I play well here. On the second day I played, my wife was more than happy to relax at the hotel and explore the town and meet me for lunch at the clubhouse. Our hotel had a package deal and ran a car over to the course whenever we needed it. Such a short commute to the course leaves time to play 18 holes and still have a half-day and full evening to explore the area's rich tourism opportunities.

Dalat is the home of the "Easy Riders," a group of English-speaking guides who take you on the back of their motorcycles on half-day tours locally or, if you want, weeks-long tours anywhere in the country. These are fun because the local speed limits are slow and thetraffic sparse, while the scenery is stunning. We took an afternoon tour that included a trip to a beautiful waterfall; a distillery where we tasted fresh rice wine right from the tubes; a local Vietnamese lunch of stir-fried rice an vegetables; an invigorating hike in the forested hills; a colorful Buddhist Wat; all with the fresh mountain air blowing on our faces as we motorcycled.

We enjoyed it so much that the next day we had them arrange a rental motorcycle for myself and, with my wife riding on the back of the guide's bike, we explored further the surrounding lakes, forests and waterfalls. The "Easy Rider" guides we had were friendly, relaxed and excellent drivers. Hotels range in price from $25 to $100 a night, while Dalat Palace has package deals that include golf - with cart, caddie, breakfast and a very nice room in their luxury hotel - for about $125 a night for two.

Dalat at 1200 Country Club

On my next trip a year later, I met a wonderful Vietnamese man, Huong, who had lived in the States many years and returned to retire in Dalat. We enjoyed golf together and he generously offered to drive me the next day to a new course being built about 25 minutes outside of town.

Like a lot of courses, you have to have someone show you how to get there the first time. But the effort was well worth it as Dalat at 1200 Country Club & Estates (originally called Royale City Golf Resort) boasts stunning views, a beautiful clubhouse and a really fine course. The fairways are like carpet and the greens very fast and multi-tiered. There were only nine holes completed when I played, so we circuited it twice and it was a joy both times.

With plenty of sand and water you have to think about your shots. The only downside is that all the holes on the original nine seem to go downhill with only one uphill. Though it made me feel like a monster driver, it would have been nice to have a little more balance. I assume this has now been addressed in the next phase of building. I got to play with the pro and groundskeeper, who are both very good golfers.

One hole looks down across a lake at hills and trees and makes you feel you are deep in the wilderness. The green is down about 300 feet below and requires a shot that isn't one you practice every day. I was pleased that somehow a couple of my drives were long than my partners. But the two could putt like PGA Tour regulars once they hit the green. Alas, my ability to sink 40-footers on command has yet not been acquired and my score reflected that by the end of 18.

Dalat at 1200's course was worth every penny of the $54 green fee, which included a cart, caddie, sauna, steam room, shower, locker and stunning alpine views.

For more information about Dalat Palace, visit http://www.dalatresorts.com/index.php/en/dalatpalace. For more about Dalat at 1200 Country Club, visit http://www.dalat1200.com/en/index.php.

Michael Bade is a video producer and writer from Seattle who has lived on and off in Asia for 16 years. When he is not producing videos for humanitarian causes he is either playing or practicing golf. You can contact him at michaelb@michaelbade.com.

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